Miradouro de Santa Luzia
A small terrace in Alfama with blue-and-white tile panels, a vine-covered pergola and a view over the rooftops to the river. Tram 28 stops just below.
- Go
- Morning, before the crowds
- Best for
- Tiles and the classic Alfama view
Climb to one of the city’s miradouros and the whole place opens up: red rooftops, a white dome in the afternoon light and hand-painted tiles on nearly every wall.
By the Global Escapes travel team · Updated
Lisbon spills down a series of steep hills to the wide Tagus River, and the best way to understand it is from the top of one.
Locals call the lookouts miradouros. Some are grand garden terraces, some are a few benches and a kiosk café under the pine trees, and nearly all of them come with a view worth the climb. At golden hour they fill with neighbors, students and travelers who’ve learned the same thing: in Lisbon, you plan your day around the light.
The old neighborhoods of Alfama and Graça sit on the eastern hills, crowned by Castelo de São Jorge. Bairro Alto and Chiado rise to the west. Wander between them and you’ll find tile-covered facades, laundry strung across narrow lanes and the yellow trams rattling past close enough to touch.
You don’t need to see them all. These are the ones we’d plan a morning or an evening around.
A small terrace in Alfama with blue-and-white tile panels, a vine-covered pergola and a view over the rooftops to the river. Tram 28 stops just below.
A few steps from Santa Luzia, a wide square looking across Alfama to the white dome of the National Pantheon and the towers of São Vicente de Fora.
Pine trees, a kiosk café and a sweeping view toward the castle and downtown. It’s officially named for the poet Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen.
One of the highest viewpoints in the city, with a panorama from the castle all the way to the river. Quieter than the terraces below.
A two-level garden terrace in Bairro Alto, looking across the valley to the castle. Ride the little Glória funicular up from Restauradores.
A relaxed, open terrace facing the river and the red 25 de Abril Bridge, with a laid-back crowd that gathers for the sunset.
The best parts of a Lisbon day happen on the walk between the views.
Stop for a pastel de nata, the custard tart Lisbon is famous for, and have it warm, with a dusting of cinnamon, standing at the counter like the locals do. In Belém, the bakery beside the Jerónimos Monastery has been making them since 1837, and Manteigaria in Chiado bakes them all day long.
In the evening, Alfama is the place for fado, the soulful Portuguese song that UNESCO recognizes as part of the world’s cultural heritage. The best rooms are small, candlelit and quiet enough to hear every breath, so we reserve a table ahead and pair it with dinner.
In a city of hills, your hotel decides how far you climb. Stay close to what you love and the views come to you.
In Alfama, Memmo Alfama has a rooftop terrace over the old quarter, and Palácio Belmonte is a restored palace tucked beside the castle walls. In Chiado, the Bairro Alto Hotel sits right on Praça Luís de Camões with a rooftop of its own. For a classic grand hotel, the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon looks over Eduardo VII Park, and Verride Palácio Santa Catarina is steps from the viewpoint it’s named for.
The small things that make Lisbon feel easy.
Lisbon’s limestone cobbles are beautiful and slick, especially on the hills. Comfortable shoes with good soles make every climb easier.
Tram 28 is a classic, and it gets crowded by midday. Ride it in the morning, or let a taxi take the hills for you.
Short taxi rides are easy and affordable, and they save your legs for the viewpoints that matter.
Restaurants fill around 8 or 9 p.m. A late lunch and a sunset at a miradouro fit the rhythm perfectly.
Palaces and gardens in the hills, about 40 minutes by train. A private guide and driver makes it a relaxed day.
The train to Porto takes about three hours, and the Douro Valley’s vineyards are just beyond.
Planning the whole trip?
Month-by-month weather, the regions we love from Barcelona to the Algarve, and how to pair Lisbon with Porto and the Douro Valley.
See the Spain & Portugal guideTell us when you’re thinking of going and who’s coming along. An advisor will take it from there.