Front Street at dusk
Walk the main street and the park as the lights come on, then stay for music at the gazebo. Hot cider in hand is optional, but recommended.
- Go
- Early evening, midweek
- Best for
- Everyone
Leavenworth, Washington
A Bavarian-style village in the Cascades, glowing with half a million lights. Here’s how to plan a cozy holiday visit.
By the Global Escapes travel team · Updated
- Best time to go
- Late November to December
- Trip length
- 3 nights in Leavenworth, 1 in Seattle
- From Atlanta
- About 5.5 hours nonstop to Seattle
- Seattle to Leavenworth
- About 2.5 hours by car over Stevens Pass
- Weather
- December highs near freezing, nights in the 20s
- Book by
- Six to nine months ahead for December weekends
Why the holidays are Leavenworth’s season
Picture timbered chalets, snowy mountains on every side and strings of lights along every roofline. In December, Leavenworth looks like a holiday card.
The village took on its Bavarian look in the 1960s and has embraced it ever since, with German bakeries, beer halls and little shops full of ornaments. Its winter celebration, Village of Lights, begins on Thanksgiving weekend.
In recent years the town has been lit every night from Thanksgiving well into winter, with the most going on through Christmas Eve: carolers and bands at the gazebo, Santa photos and kids’ crafts in the Festhalle, and holiday characters strolling through town. The old weekend switch-flipping ceremony has been retired, which spreads the crowds out a little, and the lights are free to enjoy.
Weekends are the liveliest and the busiest. For a calmer visit, come midweek, when you can wander the glowing streets with something warm in hand and actually find a table for dinner.
Holiday moments worth planning around
The lights are the headline, but the best Leavenworth trips mix in a little snow, a little adventure and plenty of time by the fire.
A horse-drawn sleigh ride
Sleighs glide through snowy valleys just outside town, and several outfitters offer private sleighs. Some rides end with hot cider and a chance to meet the horses.
- Go
- December to February, snow permitting
- Best for
- Families, couples
The Festhalle
Santa photos, crafts, a story corner and letters to Santa keep younger travelers happy, and it’s warm inside.
- Go
- An afternoon in December
- Best for
- Little ones
Leavenworth Ski Hill
A small community ski hill just above town, an easy place for a first day on skis or a snowy walk when the snow cooperates.
- Go
- A snowy morning
- Best for
- Active families
Stevens Pass
The ski area at the top of the pass sits right on your route from Seattle, so a day on the slopes fits neatly into the drive.
- Go
- On the way in or out
- Best for
- Skiers
A long Bavarian lunch
Sausages, pretzels, schnitzel and strudel are part of the fun, and a leisurely lunch in a beer hall is a Leavenworth tradition.
- Go
- Midday, before the evening crowds
- Best for
- Big appetites
Where to stay
Stay in or near the village, so you can walk to the lights and skip the parking hunt on busy evenings.
Posthotel Leavenworth is an adults-only retreat a couple of blocks from town, with river-view rooms, a swim-out saltwater pool, saunas, steam rooms and a full spa. A light breakfast and lunch are included, so the days feel wonderfully unhurried.
For families, Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort sits along Icicle Creek on 67 acres of forest just outside town, with a pool, a day spa, walking trails and a riverside restaurant. It feels like a mountain camp, all grown up.
The best rooms for December weekends go early, often by summer, so this is a trip we like to plan well ahead.
Which stay suits you
- PosthotelAdults, spa days, a short walk to the lights
- Sleeping LadyFamilies, forest trails, room to roam
- In the villageSmall inns steps from Front Street
Getting there from Seattle
Most travelers fly into Seattle and drive. It’s a beautiful trip, and in winter it pays to plan it carefully.
The direct route follows US 2 east over Stevens Pass, about 120 miles and two and a half hours in good conditions. The pass tops out above 4,000 feet, and snow is common from November on.
Check the Washington State Department of Transportation’s pass report before you leave, since traction tires or chains are sometimes required and the road can close for a while for avalanche control. Cross in daylight, give yourself extra time, and choose an all-wheel-drive rental with good tires. Many of our travelers prefer a private driver who knows the pass, so they can simply enjoy the scenery.
There’s a shortcut by air, too: Alaska Airlines flies from Seattle to Wenatchee in under an hour, and Leavenworth is about half an hour’s drive from there.
A cozy five-day shape
- Day 1Fly to Seattle, dinner by the water
- Day 2Over Stevens Pass in daylight, lights at dusk
- Day 3Sleigh ride, Bavarian lunch, the gazebo at night
- Day 4Ski, snowshoe or spa, one more evening stroll
- Day 5Back to Seattle for your flight home
Good to know
The small things that make a holiday in the mountains feel easy.
Go midweek
December weekends draw big crowds. Weeknights are calmer, with the same lights and easier dinner reservations.
Dress for real winter
Insulated boots with good grip, a warm hat and gloves make an evening stroll comfortable, even when the sidewalks are icy.
Leave the car
Parking fills early on busy evenings. Staying in town lets you park once and walk everywhere.
Cross in daylight
Check the pass conditions the morning you travel, and plan to be over the summit well before dark.
Reserve dinners
Popular restaurants fill on December weekends. We book your favorites when we book your room.
The glow lasts
In recent years the lights have stayed up into February, so a quieter January visit still sparkles.
Bringing the whole family?
Our family travel guide
Ideas for trips that work for every generation, from first holidays with little ones to big milestone gatherings with everyone together.
See the family travel guideLet’s plan your Leavenworth holiday
Tell us when you’re thinking of going and who’s coming along. An advisor will take it from there.